We've never been keen on Pierre & Gilles photographs. Crossing camp and propaganda, these loud, glittering images are all artifice and beefcake (with the occasional glimpse of cheesecake just to keep you on our toes) often revolving around mythology and religion. The style is easily recognizable and repetitive, which is why their work pops up in fashion magazines and advertising on a regular basis.
But Double Je, the current Pierre & Gilles retrospective at the Jeu de Paume in Paris, has enlightened us. If you haven't seen their work in person, YOU HAVEN'T SEEN THEIR WORK. The ads, posters, etc. are a poor substitute.
P&G don't produce photographs really, but old-fashioned, unique works of art. The photographic foundation (shot by Pierre) of these very large images is heavily retouched in paint (by Gilles), such that the object before your eyes is more painting than photo. It has texture and reflects light in different ways. The overpainting is a particularly interesting choice in the latest works, given the ease of creating digital effects today.
Each image is subsequently placed in a specially designed frame (from rough wood to shiny plastic) befitting the theme and mood of the image. Unfortunately, reproductions almost never include the frames, yet they are clearly integral parts of the work. See the image included here and you know what we mean.
They become enormous icons. A far cry from a magazine ad.
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